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2021 Philadelphia Film Festival: Julia Review

By Lora Grady

Directors Julie Cohen and Betsy West, whose 2018 documentary "RBG" was an engaging and insightful look into the life and legacy of the late Supreme Court Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, have set their sights on an equally formidable subject with their new film "Julia." This delicious offering tells the story of pioneering chef Julia Child, who brought her passion for classic French cooking to the forefront of popular culture and changed American life in countless ways. Longtime fans will enjoy this lively retrospective and may be surprised to pick up new facts about their culinary heroine, while those who aren't familiar will gain a tasty perspective on Child's significance as a pioneer whose influence extended well beyond the kitchen.

Cohen and West employ a mix of historical footage and contemporary interviews to explore Child's life and career. The through-line here is audio of Child looking back and discussing her history, so in effect she narrates her own life story for us. The film takes a loosely linear approach, so we learn about Julia's upbringing in tony Pasadena, CA and how she thwarted the expectations of her conservative, well-to-do family by striking out on her own instead of marrying young and settling down. When she did marry it was to a man she met while both employed by the government and posted overseas. Her husband Paul's career with the diplomatic corps brought the couple to Paris in the early 1950s, and there Julia developed the passion for French cooking that was to set the true direction of her life.

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Viewers may be surprised to learn that Child was one of the first women to attend the famed Cordon Bleu cooking school, and that it took a dozen years for she and co-authors Louisette Bertholle and Simone Beck to finish their first draft of the now-famous Mastering the Art of French Cooking. Want more surprises? "Julia" uses historical footage and the amused recollections of former WGBH-Boston producer/director Russell Morash to recount how a last-minute invitation to appear on a book review program led to Child both creating the first television cooking show and fundamentally springboarding the development of public television as we know it today.

Directors Cohen and West keep the pace lively, mixing interviews with friends and close collaborators and testimonies from well-known chefs and restauranteurs (Jose Andres, Jacques Pepin) with a wealth of footage from Child's many and varied tv appearances that spanned nearly four decades. Behind the scenes we also learn about the steadfast support husband Paul provided throughout her career, as well as the evolving political views and philanthropic efforts that kept Child engaged and active until her death at age 92.

Oh, but what about the food? No film about Julia Child would be complete without a hearty helping of kitchen instruction, from raw materials (literally - early footage includes a parade of raw poultry as Child demonstrates the various sizes of roasting birds) to delectable finished products (an elegant omelette, a glistening poached pear and almond tart).With its savory blend of the public and personal sides of the famous chef, "Julia" is a deliciously entertaining tribute that will leave you inspired - and ready to conquer your own kitchen.

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Movie title Julia
Release year
MPAA Rating PG-13
Our rating
Summary This delicious documentary tells the story of pioneering chef Julia Child and her influence on American popular culture.
View all articles by Lora Grady
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